Images of the West

Entrepreneurs on the Edges of Yellowstone

Written By M. Mark Miller (Author's Bio)
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Stagecoach service between Bozeman and Mammoth Hot Springs began in 1873 over a sometimes treacherous road that passed through Yankee Jim Canyon. Service from Virginia City to the Lower Geyser Basin began a few years later. Photo By: Pioneer Museum
Gilman Sawtell, far right, poses with travelers in his cabin at Henry's Lake, Idaho. He led a group to the park in 1871 becoming Yellowstone's first paid guide. Early travelers often spent several days at Sawtell's. Photo By: Island Park Historical Society
Bottler's Ranch in the Paradise Valley was halfway between Bozeman and Mammoth making it the perfect overnight stop. Bottler catered to travelers providing horses, supplies and guide services. Photo By: William H. Jackcon
James McCartney's cabin at the mouth of Clementis Gulch near Mammoth was the first structure in the park and served as a primitive hotel. Photo By: National Park Service
Railroad tracks skirted by "Yankee Jim" George's cabin ending his toll road monopoly on access to the north entrance to Yellowsstone Park. A notorious teller of tall tales, Yankee Jim earned entries in many travelers' journals. Photo By: Pioneer Museum
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Marshall’s continued the pattern of patrons from nearby describing it as comfortable and providing “country style” service, while those from afar complained of such things as “thin walled construction and lack of privacy.”

Yellowstone’s pioneer hospitality providers didn’t stay in business long. Mathew McGuirk was denied a lease in 1873 and had to close his “Medicinal Springs.” Harry Horr sold his share of the hotel at Mammoth to his partner, James McCartney, who lost his lease in 1881. George Marshall sold his operation in 1886 to the Yellowstone Park Association, which built the Fountain Hotel nearer to the geysers.

Because they were outside the park boundaries, Gilman Sawtell and Fred Bottler stayed in business for several decades. Sawtell transferred his property to his son in 1890, and Bottler died a wealthy man on his ranch in 1917. Yankee Jim continued collecting tolls until 1893 when Park County purchased it following complaints about his rates and maintenance of the road.

The coming of the railroads brought a flood of new tourists to Yellowstone Park, but the visitors from distant places weren’t the blessing that the early entrepreneurs hoped for. They not only demanded more luxury, but also put pressure on the park administration to get rid of the old hotels and recruit new concessionaires to build better accommodations. The railroads won monopoly licenses for new park development companies that began building grand hotels that rivaled the best East Coast establishments.

A new road was built up the Madison Canyon bypassing Sawtell’s and railroad trains rattled through Bottler’s ranch without stopping. The entrepreneurial pioneers of Yellowstone’s hospitality business just drifted away — like geyser steam.

M. Mark Miller is a fourth-generation Montanan who grew up on a ranch near Silver Star. He returned to Montana in 2003 after a 35-year career as a newspaperman and journalism professor. He lives in Bozeman where he researches Western history and writes.
           
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PHOTO CREDITS >>
Pioneer Museum, Island Park Historical Society, William H. Jackcon, National Park Service

The story that might have been lost

Posted By Alanna on Nov 17, 2008
Work like this is so important, just as the small county museums preserve a history of place that would otherwise be lost. Who knew that so much was in place before the Hayden Expedition? That a crude capitalism was already in place in the 1860s? I always wonder what the Indians thought of these dirty stragglers with the powerful guns who killed a staggering amount of animals and fish. Mark gives us one-half of the story. The first footfalls of settlement before trains forever changed the West. I am grateful for the careful presentation and the images that tell a story we would not otherwise know. Well-done.

Excellent Article

Posted By Astrid on Aug 24, 2008
This article by Mark Miller really captures the flavor of the period. He is a consummate story teller!

Neat history of this area.

Posted By Philip on Jul 21, 2008
It's pretty cool to see how resourceful early Montanan's really were!
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