Dining Out: A New Kind of Comfort in the Spud State

ACCORDING TO FOOD LOVERS IN SOUTHWEST IDAHO, THE BEST RESTAURANT IN BOISE IS ACTUALLY IN NEARBY NAMPA. The state’s second largest city — founded in 1886 as a railroad town — Nampa has undergone a major renaissance in the past decade and is a mere 15 miles from midtown Boise. This once-sleepy community now boasts a charming, restored historic district, a happening commuter West — everyone is welcome.”

No dress code doesn’t mean Brick 29 has a nondescript setting with thoughtless service or so-so food. On the contrary, located in an 89-year-old restored Masonic Lodge and named for the chef’s favorite color — copper — that happens to be the 29th element on the periodic table, Brick 29 Bistro has earned its good reputation.

The building’s restoration was eco-friendly: Original hardwood floors were refurbished, much of the poplar and maple used in the original structure were salvaged and turned into tabletops and trim. As for the menu, chef Bristol knows his subject matter; it’s in his genes. Born in Coeur d’Alene, Bristol cut his teeth on all the deliciousness that Idaho has to offer, from pike to pears to potatoes. The high-quality products with which he grew up influenced his future.

After finishing high school in Alaska, Bristol went to work as a dishwasher for a cruise ship hotel in Juneau. “The head chef was so clever,” says Bristol. “He knew I was dying to cook so we made a deal: if I finished the dishes fast enough, he’d let me peel the potatoes. If I finished the potatoes in record time, he’d allow me to peel the fresh fruit. And if that chore was complete, I was given the honor of carving centerpieces for the buffet tables!” For a young dishwasher with dreams of chef’s whites, this opportunity was a foot in the proverbial door that would eventually lead to his success.

“Working in Alaska was great; I learned about discipline, hard work and restaurant basics,” says Bristol. After a while, he longed for Idaho, and eventually returned to his home state. In Boise, Bristol worked as a prep cook at a high-volume and now defunct restaurant called the Sandpiper. After that he moved on to prepare corporate meals at the Boise Marriott.